I HAD THE GOOD FORTUNE of meeting Chef Eugène Herbodeau (right) many years ago, when he had already retired after a most distinguished career. He had come up from the Côte d’Azur to London to greet his many friends at the premier society of chefs in that great city. Indeed, he was our honorary president at the Association Culinaire Française.

       Gilbert Harding had been an outspoken restaurant commentator in the British Isles after the war, and I reminded the eminent chef of his challenge to this acerbic critic to a cook-off. Harding was visibly shaken, and feebly asked, “What can we cook?” English fish n chips was the great chef’s reply!

      These memories came flooding back to me yesterday at my favourite shop in Toronto’s downtown core to eat wild haddock and chips. RELIABLE fish & chips at Queen Street East & Carlaw has been in business for more than 80 years; AND it’s always reliable. Indeed, Estrella keeps the premises meticulously clean and the quality is always tiptop. Maître Chef Herbodeau would be proud of her and of the proprietor George Hung who’s recently opened another shop THE BIG FISH on Queen West. No doubt it’s as reliable, too!

 Nota.— When the Maître Chef Auguste ESCOFFIER retired from the Carlton Hotel London in 1922, it was Chef Herbodeau who took over the reigns.

Eugene Herbodeau
Carlton Hotel 1937 (Nat. Gallery UK) by Francis Stoddard